Vol.2 Bottom of the Hill

Map http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&t=h&msa=0&msid=109739656233440862437.00044d1719488a2ea7b6a&ll=33.006234,-116.959827&spn=0.005479,0.00824&z=17

Woodson Overview http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=109739656233440862437.00044cfd11656e9819fbf&t=h&z=14

Woodson Trails http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=109739656233440862437.00044cfdb47c7d53d10ab&t=h&ll=33.003193,-116.980791&spn=0.042325,0.093727&z=14

Woodson Trails (topographic) http://www.efgh.com/maps/mtwoodson.gif

San Diego Overview http://climbingsandiego.com/forum/index.php?topic=267.0

Mt Woodson Vol2, Bottom of the Hill
Shortest approach
Updated 25Nov2008

Boulder 1 (GPS= 00’22.66” 57’36.90”)
   .8    mantle left of crack
   .9 traverse
   .8    crack
   V1    direct start to crack
   V1    center
   V1    right, uses big crimp
   V1*    fingercrack
   V11 Rain Dance- grainy dirty rounded corner and micro edging FA- Daniel Beall
   .9*    flake

Boulder 2 (GPS= N33º00’22.96” W116º57’36.76”) occasionally top-roped, some of the landings are bad
    V0    between tree and wide crack, high step, and high step again to big slopey hands
    .7*    wide crack
    V4**   Birtley’s Problem- long powerful pulls on small holds
    V2    grainy face between Birtley’s and finger crack, thin high step then a bit left and up with a bad landing
    .7    two finger cracks
    V1*    seamy face up and right from base of finger cracks
    V2*    face left of lieback/mantle, topout is up and left, doesn’t share a topout with the lieback/mantle to the right
    .7*   lieback into mantle
   .8   start on west side at finger cracks, traverse and undercling right into lieback/ mantle
    V2    double mantle directly right of lieback/mantle
    .7    slab on corner
    .7    slab left
    .7*    slab center
    .5    down climb, slab right

Boulder 13, Private property, off limits V3 sitstart, overhanging, splitter hands to offwidth, south from boulder1.

Sunday Afternoon Boulder (GPS= 00’22.64” 57’39.74”) located in trees above road
3   5.8** left facing dihedral, hands to wide crack/lieback on NE side (2bolt anchor)
   5.8** dihedral/ramp w/crack of crack, on W side (2 bolt anchor)
   5.8** flake on W side (2 bolt anchor)
   5.10d    crack/ undercling up and right, back left across sloping ledge (tr bolts)
   5.11D**Aid’s Victim- thin seam/shallow fingers, often aided but don’t think it’s been lead free (2bolt anchor)
   V1*     traverse from flake past the start of Aid’s Victim

(GPS= 00’22.98” 57.40.08”)
4   V2   corner of boulder between Sunday Afternoon and Train

I Hear My Train Acomin’ Boulder (GPS= 00’22.79” 57’41.30”) in the trees above road
5   V1   Scream Seam- left of Train, bad landing (long slings/ 2nd rope or small gear anchor)
   5.11C/V3otd**** I Hear My Train Acomin’- classic overhanging thin fingers to easy dihedral on N side (2bolt anchor) FA- John Bachar 1974 (onsite and solo)
   5.10+/V1*** The Razors Edge- flake to the right of Train (2bolt anchor)
   .8   right of Razors Edge, bad landing

(GPS= 00’23.30” 57’42.19”)
6   V?    sitstart, some people will climb anything

(GPS= 00’22.50” 57’43.86”)
7   V0   Fish Mantle- small grainy roadside boulder, supposed to be climbed in approach shoes and backpack at the end of the day

Black Finger (GPS= 00’21.65” 57’43.20”)
8   V0-**Black Finger- crack, located alone up the steep eroded hill above road (2bolt anchor)

(GPS= 00’22.02” 57’41.24”)
9   V1otd Substance Abuse- slab on left side of large boulder between Train and Tower1 (tr bolts)
   V1otd Relapse- off little ledge to the right of Substance Abuse (tr bolts)

Tower 1 (GPS= 00’21.69” 57’41.20”) group of four obvious boulders on hilltop
Summit Boulder, bolted tr/rappel anchor
10   5.7**   S face w/1 lead bolt (2bolt anchor)
   .9   direct start
   5.10* direct finish up SE corner (tr bolts)
   5.11/V2** Pit Bull- grainy E face inside chimney (tr bolts)
   5.11-/V1 off the top of the NE block just right of Pit Bull (tr bolts)
SE Block, tr bolt on top
   .5    W side of chimney separating the NE and SE blocks, inside big chimney
   .9    corner of chimney/ left side of SE block w/o using walls behind or to left
   V0    center of W face in chimney (tr bolts)
   5.12    Plain Nooky- bulge on corner, contrived, not easy to pull hard while you’ve got big features within reach (tr bolts)
   5.10*   seam (tr bolts)
   V3    direct start, thin face
   5.11/V2** thin face to seam, corner and big holds on left side of chimney
   .9*    E side chimney splitting NE and SE blocks
NE Block, bp’s
   V0*    groove and seam, loose hold to topout
   V0    seam on N side
   .5    N side of wide crack separating Summit block and NE block
   .7    inside big chimney, S side of wide crack separating summit block and NE block
Lower Block
   5.12-* Summertime Blues- thin crack (tr bolts)
   .0-   horizontal chimney between upper and lower blocks

(GPS= 00’21.25” 57’41.04”)
11   .8    flakes just right of NE corner of boulder directly S of Tower 1, crux start

12 .9 dirty E facing offwidth on rock E of Tower1

Split Boulder (GPS= 00’20.55” 57’42.05”) between Tower 1 and Chimney rocks
14   .8*    wide crack on N side
   V0*    crimps on L side of W side
   V0*    dyno in center of W side
   .6    downclimb, crack on S side, start low and don’t use the flake sticking out of ground
   V2    E face (I'm going to chop the botched bolt on top of this, I believe I made the FA, fold a pad in half or easily set up with cams)

Chimney Rocks (GPS= 00’20.04” 57’42.06”)
South Side
15   5.7*    dihedral/crack on W side of S face (2bolt anchor)
   A3+    Slim Jim- rurps, 2 fixed heads, and hooks on C of S face (2bolt anchor)
   5.9    generic slab up E face, start up either side of flake (tr bolts)
Lower Block
   5.11** S arete on the E block (tr bolts)
   5.11+? thin face between corners (thread chalkstone, gear, or bolts on upper block to tr)
   5.10+   up and right to ledge and slabby rounded SE corner (tread chalkstone, gear, or bolts on upper block to tr)
Center Corridor
   5.2*    squeeze chimney all the way inside the center corridor of the formation (2bolt anchor)
   .0-   horizontal slot through to the S side of the formation
   5.8   corner made by left side of dirty chimney, right side of splitter chimney, up around left side of block, backside of chimney is off (tr bolts)
   .9otd up corner but then right underneath block, careful of loose edge/foothold (gear anchor)
   5.8   up corner then step behind and finish up the rock behind you (difficult to tr)
   5.9   up corner then right up overhanging jugs on the left side of the block, the rock your back brush’s up against is off, very contrived (difficult to tr)
   V1otd N side of corridor, R-L foot traverse that dead ends at broken handholds
   .0-    crack on S side of flake
   V0   polished dishes and slab, right of crack
   5.9   generic slab off top of the flake up E face (sling boulder or gear anchor, belay from top and out on corner)
North side
   V0** offwidth on N side (3-4” cam anchor)

Masters Of The Universe

(GPS= 00’20.10” 57’44.88”)
16   .9   left side, hands on big holds
   V1*   standing start
   V6?*    sitstart
   V0   right start, rock up onto slab

(GPS= 00’20.24” 57’44.54”)
17   .8    mantle on S side
   .8    mantle on the E side
   B1   also supposed to be a “B1 pull” on this rock?

(GPS= 00’20.64” 57’43.81”)
18   V0    El Guapo Left- slightly otd thin face, crux sart
   V0    El Guapo Right- crux start
   V2** arete on S side
   .8    downclimb

(GPS= 00’20.40” 57’43.48”) painted boulder
19   V4?    just left
    V1*   right side of N face
   .6    left side of corner
   .6    down climb, right side of corner

(GPS= 00’20.30” 57’43.70”)
20   V2    Skeletor- starts off rock in trail on NE side
   .4   short crack/ flake on NW side

(GPS= 00’20.33” 57’43.84”)
21   V0*    mantle on NE corner

(GPS= 00’20.00” 57’43.47”)
22   .9    She-Ra- generic slightly otd slab on E side a couple feet left of chimney

(GPS= 00’20.07” 57’43.58”)
23   V2    friction on NE corner between chimney and Slap And Tickle
   V2    Slap And Tickle- right side of N side

(GPS= 00’20.04” 57’43.70”)
24   V2    Moroccan Menace- slab to slopey corner/arete with bad feet, left side of N face

(GPS= 00’20.11” 57’44.04”)
25   .8    grainy
   V2    Blind Faith- mantle on N side

   .2    crack in dihedral on N side
   V7?    move wonder on W side
   V1    SW corner with bad fall into manzanita bush
   V4?    polished slabby face on SE corner

(GPS= 00’19.88” 57’44.16”)
26   .2    slab on the NW side of the big boulder, facing opposite the last route mentioned
   .5    move to get onto the long W ridge (otd but super easy)

(GPS= 00’19.64” 57’43.72”)
27   .9    move on N side
   V6?   Traverse N side L-R
   V1    right side of N face, left side of corner
   V0-    left side of W face, right side of corner, high step onto slab

(GPS= 00’19.75” 57’43.32”)
28   V3*    He-Man- mantle/wrestling match on the S side

(GPS= 00’19.85” 57’42.88”)
29   .6**    handcrack on the E side

(GPS= 00’21.00” 57’42.50”)
30   V1    Pretzel Mantle- NE side of boulder just north of power pole next to trail, half way between chimney rock and Masters Of The Universe
   V0    overhanging sitstart on poor rock, W side

(GPS= 00’18.20” 57’47.10”)
31   V1**   rail
   V0   short offwidth
   V1   sitstart
   .9   right side of corner

Slant Crack (GPS= 00’19.57” 57’49.30”)
32   .9**   Slant Crack- splitter handcrack on N side (.5-.75” gear anchor)
   V4    mantle/hand foot match on a small chicken head on the NW side
   .3    decent crack on S side

Chopper Mantles (GPS= 00’19.32” 57’50.16”)
33   V0    5.10 Shelf- left side of E side
   V2   sitstart
   V6?    Kamikaze Mantle- cheat stone on NE corner
   V0    Chopper Mantle- NW corner

Television Screen (GPS= 00’19.11” 57’50.12”) square block that stands out on hillside
34   V4**   Slapstick-
   V6?    Woodward Arete- left side of face
   V?    center of face
   V0**   Super Edge- arete on right side of face (1bolt anchor)
   V2** right side of the arete, sit start same grade (1bolt anchor)

35   V0    mantle on N side, I can't place this one exactly without a visit

Elephant’s Trunk (GPS= 00’20.87” 57’47.04”) usually bouldered, gear anchor
36   V0*   face left of crack
   .9*    Elephant’s Trunk- handcrack, can be seen from road where the trail to it starts
   V1   sitstart
   V0*    to right of crack
   .5*    featured low angle face
   .7    right side of face
   V0*    left side of corner, direct start to downclimb
   .4   downclimb, slabby dishes

Baby Elephant (GPS= 00’20.31” 48.60”)
37   .8    Baby Elephant- short hand crack to flake on E side
   .8    direct start , face right of crack
   V1    seams on W side
   V0    S side, overgrown w/bushes

Sun/Shade Sunday Afternoon boulder and Train are good to hide at on sunny days. Birtley's and
Elephant’s Trunk are also good. This low on the hill is typically more protected from wind.

Bolts This is only what bolts are on now, today, not historically. Bolts have been removed from Jaws,
Alcoa and many others in the past. Train and Razors Edge were toproped for 30 years with no need
for them before they appeared maybe 7 years ago. Bolts were removed from TV screen at least
once before the current bolt was placed about 5 years ago. The bolts on Sunday Afternoon were
placed only 4 years ago and the bolts on Substance Abuse were placed in the last year.

Send beta and first accent info for this area to erikchristopherroed@yahoo.com