Valley of the Moon, Gravity wall
morning shade and strong breeze
28 April 2008
A) 5.9* Choss Bag. Jason Lanman/ Erik Roed
hands to stemming. Few cams .75-2.5”, 2 bolts. Bolt anchor (well camouflaged at your feet).
B) 5.11A Kepler's Thoughts. Jeff Brown
(far left) seam/thin crack/sport. Bolts. Shuts.
C) 5.11B Newton's Law. Brown
(second from left) splitter wide fingercrack. Bolts. Shuts.
D) 5.11A** Big Beefy Choss Lips Supreme. Roed/ Lanman
p1 10a fingers and hands to cave. Double cams small to 3”, few nuts (nut placement on left wall above ledge). Gear anchor in cave (walk off left or tunnel through right to rap anchor).
p2 11b stem, bridge, heelhook, kneebar, handjam, and lieback through roof. Singles small to 2.5”. Bolt anchor.
p3 10b fingers and hands. Doubles small to 2.5”. Bolt anchor.
E) 5.10C Choss Whore. Roed/ Lanman
short crux into Choss Lips. One bolt, single set cams (offsets useful), few nuts (left wall above ledge). Gear anchor in cave (walk off left or tunnel through right to rap anchor).
F) 5.8 What Would Choss Do. Roed/ Lanman
chimney to crack/ flake, short. Singles small to 3”. Bolt anchor on ledge (to the right).
G) 5.10B Skate Away. Andy Murtomaki
face left of crack, or bolted crack? 4 bolts. Shuts.
H) 5.10B* Roed/ Lanman
can a crack be a squeeze job? 2 bolts, nuts in bottom of crack, gear to 3 or 4”. Bolt anchor on ledge (to the right).
I) 5.10B Choss Central Station. Roed/ Lanman
p1 5 bolts. Bolt anchor on ledge (to the left).
p2* Doubles small to 2”, gear to 4”. Bolt anchor.
J) 5.10D* Heat's On. Dan Haughelstine
Bolts. Shuts.
K) 5.10A* Best crack in the Moon. Haughelstine
Doubles small to 1”, gear to 2 or 3”. Shuts.
L) 5.10D Distant Warning. Murtomaki
face left of the crack, or bolted crack? Bolts. Shuts.
M) 5.10B** Straight Shooter. unknown
crack with bolts well within reach, excellent gear. 2 bolts, doubles fingers to 2 or 3”. Shuts.
N) 5.11B* Paradigm Shift. Brown
exit right side of crack around the 5th bolt. 8(7?) bolts. Shuts.
O) 5.11C* Roed/ Lanman
just below Paradigm Shift's 3rd bolt (reach up and clip the 4th bolt first) traverse right and up past one bolt to rejoin PS at it's last bolt, better toproped. 6(5?) bolts. Shuts.
P) 5.10B Roed/ Lanman
5.8 extension of Straight Shooter to summit, face into corner/chimney, adventure. 2 bolts, small rack to 3 or 4” (+ doubles for Straight Shooter). Bolt anchor.
Q) 5.10B* Roed/ Brown
5.10A extension of Straight Shooter up crack that ends at 30m. One bolt, gear to 3” (+ doubles for Straight Shooter). Shuts.
R) 5.12 Jack the Chipper. Jack Marshall
35m extension of Paradigm Shift. 16(15?) bolts. Shuts.
S)5.11C** Roed/ Lanman (Replaced ¼ bolt and cleaned vintage bail anchor 60' up)
35m fingers to hands. 1 bolt, doubles tiny to 2.5”, single nuts. Bolt anchor
T) 5.10 Roed/ Lanman
35m adventure. 1 bolt, doubles small to 2”, gear to 3?”. Bolt anchor.
U) 5.11D Einstein's Relativity. Brown
sportclimb. Bolts. Shuts.
V) 5.11D** Brown/ Roed
sportclimb. Bolts. Shuts.
W) 5.10C* What Would Chossazulu do. Roed/ Lanman
traverse past one bolt from D to X. Gear small-1.5”, 3 bolts, fixed nut. Bolt anchor.
X) 5.10C Chossazulu. Roed/ Lanman
dihedral through small roof to flake/arete. Start is chossy, sew it up or toprope. Gear to 3”, fixed nut, 2 bolts. Bolt anchor.
Y) 5.10B Record Choss. Roed/ Lanman
adventure. Doubles small to 3 or 4”. Bolt anchor.
Z) 5.10C High Choss Advisory. Roed/ Lanman
slightly better finish to Record Choss, 2 bolts on right wall, turn corner to 3rd bolt. Doubles small to 2.5”, 3 bolts. Gear anchor.
AA) open project
BB) 5.11D** Choss Vader. Roed/ Lanman
5.11A and 35m from ground to lip (last 3 bolts are fixed w/chains).
If turning lip (crux) and going to top belay from ledge and use long runners on last 3 bolts (drag). After turning lip run rope under lip (or will get stuck in crack). 4 bolts, a single 2.2-2.5” cam, optional single set tiny to 1”. Gear anchor small to 1”.
CC) 5.10D* Sexual Chossolate. Roed/ Lanman
on corner before gravity wall, next to tunnel, 25m. 8 bolts, gear to 2.5”. Bolt anchor
DD) 5.10C* Roed/ Lanman
Between Patina wall and tunnel to Gravity, in the open, sunny, burned area. Easy crack over small roof to big ledge/cave to larger wide roof and crux mantle finish. Gear to 4”. Shuts.
Pillar at Patina Wall
EE) 5.11C* Masters of Choss. Roed/ Lanman
sportclimb on side of Pillar facing Patina wall. 7 bolts. Shuts.
FF) 5.11C Poached Choss. Roed/ Lanman/ Haughelstine
right side of pillar. 5 bolts. Bolt anchor.
