Map http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=109739656233440862437.00044cf9eab3437684831&ll=33.009597,-116.973922&spn=0.00529,0.011716&t=h&z=17Woodson Overview
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=109739656233440862437.00044cfd11656e9819fbf&t=h&z=14Woodson Trails
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=109739656233440862437.00044cfdb47c7d53d10ab&t=h&ll=33.003193,-116.980791&spn=0.042325,0.093727&z=14Woodson Trails (topographic)
http://www.efgh.com/maps/mtwoodson.gifSan Diego Overview
http://climbingsandiego.com/forum/index.php?topic=267.0Mt Woodson Vol1, Over the Top of the Hill
Bonus 30 minutes of cardio
Updated 27March2009
Summit Boulders
Right side at fork in road where it goes to the summit (GPS= N33º00.533’ W116º58.259’)
1 V1 white dike one move wonder
2 .8 one move wonder to the right of the dike
Left summit boulder (GPS= N515 W263)
3 V2* Spidey Sense- thin edges to friction W side, right of seam/ water groove, just left of retaining wall FA- Erik Roed
Right summit boulder (GPS= N517 W263)
4 V0* step off retaining wall on left side of E face
5 .9* center of face
6 .6 descent route, right side of face
7 V?* big reaches on steep groove W side
Small boulder south of right summit boulder, end of the 2nd fork, next to building (GPS= N529 W287)
8 .5 standing start L-R
8b V0 sitstart L side of corner up against fence, come around right side
8c V2* sitstart R side of corner, right sidepull, reach to top
9b V0 sitstart right side of boulder at drilled pocket (not drilled by climbers)
9c V0* jumpstart to shelf, left and up w/o using corner
Second fork in road, right side, directly across from right summit boulder (GPS= N529 W281)
10 V1* right side of corner on S side up, closest to fence (tr bolts+ slings)
11 V1* big holds on steep face, crux start past finger lock on E side, right off road (tr bolts)
12 .5* left side of N face, from timbers mantel onto shelf (tr bolts)
12b V1* direct start off road, feet cut loose while throwing to shelf and want to bump logs, lost a handhold around 1997 (tr bolts)
13 .9* center of N face, right of timbers (tr bolts)
14 V0-otd right side of N face finishing to left (tr bolts)
14b 5.10 right finish (tr bolts)
15 5.11*** Hammer and Sickle- overhanging NW prow, start on left corner and traverse in under huge flake, steep, physical, pumpy (tr bolts)
15b V?* first handhold to the original direct start is gone, throw off small incuts
Across road from previous (GPS= N550 W278)
16a .0 L side S corner
16b .4* R side S corner
16c V3 center of E face, reach to top w/o using corner
16d .6* L side N corner
16e .9* R side N corner
North Slope
Way down N slope and overgrown trail from #16 (GPS= N628 W295)
17 A2 Bill- will go free, beaks, knifeblades, lostarrows, tcu’s (gear anchor) FA- British John et al
18 A3 Ben- beaks, blades, arrows, tcu’s, cams, nuts, large hook useful (gear anchor) FA- British John et al
(GPS= N664 W250)
19 5.9 Phanton Crack- next boulder 200’ N downhill, 35+’ less then vertical awkward hands to flare FA- Rick Piggot
(GPS= N656 W221)
20 V2? unclimbed dirty offwidth looks like Greg’s but L side in and a bit easier, E from previous
(GPS=N660 W219)
21 5.10-? unclimbed white dike up center of 30’ slab, E of previous
South Slope
Down S slope from summit and #3, or E from #25 (GPS= N512 W307)
22 5.8* Rick James Bitch- 3 bolt SW corner (2bolt anchor) FA- Roed, Jason Lanman
23 5.10* Fer Shizzle- E corner, step L onto slab, switch back to R side up higher (tr bolts) FA-Roed, Lanman
Huge chimney seen from road (GPS= N528 W295)
24 A2+ bolts, heads, chiseled hooks on S side FA- British John
Behind building directly W of #24 (GPS= N529 W325)
25 .8otd** I’m Rich, Beotch- huge knob on SE corner FA- Roed
Next to #29 Rolling Stone (GPS= N516 W318)
26 V0- thin licheny N face (tr bolts)
27 .4 very short NW face to gain summit (tr bolts)
28 5.10 thin face on SW side (tr bolts) FA- Roed, Lanman
Drop down S slope E from building next to 21, or SW from summit passing #19 (GPS= N516 W315)
29 5.10B** Rolling Stone- big incut handholds up overhanging E face (tr bolts) FA- Piggot
30 V1 Notorious- thin face to easy otd finish to gain summit on NW side FA- Piggot?
31 5.11* Grows No Moss- W face left of big corner, boulder problem start, powerful reaches on incuts up to corner and easier climbing (tr bolts) FA- (tr) Lanman
32 5.10 lame tall thin face starts 10’ off ground (tr bolts)
supposedly this boulder shifted during a storm making these climbs
left side at two white fuel tanks, just before dropping down the last 300’ or so to Test Tube/ Crucible. See the tops of 2 big flat rocks and to their right a spire with a bolt and tree growing out a crack (GPS= N523 W351)
33 5.10A* Wiggle- short flare w/ hands in back on SW corner (gear anchor, belay from top)
34 A2+? seam on left side of S face (2bolt anchor)
35 5.10B** Mustang Flake- flake on S side (tr bolts)
36 V3otd** El Barbaro- upside down offwidth in chimney made by huge flake on E side, use handjams at base of 5.4 flake to invert, sitstart adds no difficulty FA- Roed
37 5.4** flake up E side
38 V0-otd corner of huge adjacent flake
the further large rock, biggest boulder on whole S slope (GPS= N509 W362)
39 V1otd* Live to Fly- start inside cave and climb out E wall on jugs and jams FA- Roed
40 V0otd* Fly to Live- climb out W side in flaring Bombay chimney FA- Roed
41 .9otd* Edging Skill- nice edge climbing just right of cave
42 5.13? was a stellar 80’ 5.11 but lost a handhold, now a 5’ reach off a nickel edge one move wonder, start at 43 and straight up instead of right (tr bolts) FA(tr)- Doug Robinson?
43 5.11C** Piece of Mind- 7 bolt 80’ less then vertical edging and sidepulling (2bolt anchor) FA- Roed, Lanman, Ramon Thomson
44 5.16 110’ face has a section that’s maybe 5.13 and a 20’ section that looks blank
44b 5.5* the upper 50’ if lowered down from the top is good, don’t lower climber over bulge
45 5.9* Whale Left- left of the two big cracks, offwidth to flake and flare (tie off boulders, belay from top)
46 5.7* Whale Right- right crack, offwidth to squeeze (tie off boulders, belay from top)
47 5.11A***Aces High- 5 bolts on a white dike (2bolt anchor) FA- (tr) Robinson?, bolted by Roed, Lanman, Thomson
48 5.8** Iron Crown- fingers and hands on E corner (sling telephone pole support cable)
at the base of the two 5.9 wide cracks (GPS= N491 W354)
49 5.10 lame hugging on corner S side of chimney (tie off tree, belay out on corner) FA- Roed, Lanman
50 5.9* Slow Time at Claremont High- Flake (tie off boulder) FA- Roed
spire to the S, closer to road (GPS= N521 W359)
51 5.7* Tao of Pooh- E face starting off rock, bolt protected crux to 5.6, sling tree or gear (2bolt anchor)
52 5.11* Little Chinese Seamstress- S arete (tr bolts)
(GPS= N523 W380)
53 V0otd** Defenders of Faith- left corner lieback and smear FA- Roed
54 .9 edging up center of slab
(GPS= N502 W400)
55 .9otd* Flintstones Crack- roofcrack, chimney to offwidth to hands and fingers at lip FA- Roed
9th Circuit Court of Appeal
Right side 100’ before Test Tube/ Crucible, follow trail (across from white cement driveway) 100’ (GPS= N555 W395)
(GPS= N567 W381)
56 .9 downclimb
57 V1 jumpstart to edge and mantel FA- Jon Lanman
58 V1 stand up on tiny knob using big slopers FA- Jon Lanman
59 .9* big hold on corner to massive knob
(GPS= N577 W388
60 .8 the evildoer v. San Diego- grab quartz and pull over bulge
61 V0 Kennedy v. Free World- sidepulls to knob
(GPS= N582 W384)
62 5.10A* Roe v. Wade- offwidth to hands and a bucket at lip, short and steep (belay from top)
(GPS= N578 W383)
63 5.9* Husler v. Falwell- fingers and hands, licheny (tie off flake, belay from top, sit close to edge, keep rope out of crack)
64 5.6** Bong Hits 4 Jesus (Frederick v. Morse)- hands and fists (tie off flake, belay from top)
65 5.8 Oliphant v. Suquamish- offwidth, short (gear anchor, belay from top, rope will pinch if same Flake is used)
66 5.11A** Miranda v. Arizona- fingers (tie off rock, sit next to)
(GPS= N576 W393)
67 5.11/V2otd**Plead the Fifth- lieback, crux start (single tr bolt can be backed up by cam or bush)
(GPS= N583 W390)
68 5.11+* I Strenuously Object- steep left side of flake, tree prevents lead (tr bolts+ directional) FA(tr)- Lanman
69 5.11C** Pervs For Title 9- 2 bolts past incuts and buckets on 30-45deg face (2bolt anchor) FA- Roed, Lanman
70 5.10A***Yes and No Crack- dihedral with one wall overhanging, finger sized pieces (2bolt anchor)
Test Tube/ Crucible
Left side directly on road just before the end of the pavement (GPS= N560 W419)
71 .8 offwidth behind fence on E side
72 5.11A** Test Tube- flare w/fingers in back (gear +pole) FA- Piggot?
73 5.10B****Crucible- tight hands into offwidth, runout finish past biggest cams (2bolt anchor)
74 5.5/.5 chimney on w side
Left at the end of the pavement (actually follow pavement)
Left side just east of building that looks like a public restroom (GPS= N534 W411)
75 .9 horizontal hand and finger crack traverse R-L W side
76 5.10C* Tom Thumb- 3 bolts feet flying dyno to easy knobs up the back of the thumb (2bolt anchor) FA- Roed, Lanman, Thomson
77 .9* horizontal hand and finger traverse L-R E side
78 5.10 short lieback up crack (tr bolts)
79 5.10 mantel into dish just right if crack (tr bolts)
Right side west of building (GPS= N541 W438)
80 5.4* Georgie Bear- E slab, kids climbs (tr bolts)
81 5.7* knobs up west face, start out of tree (tr bolts)
Right side just past the end of the pavement, next to trail on the same rock as the Diving Board, go
around skiers right side of the rock (GPS= N555 W438)
82 V1*** Ride the Lightning- overhanging 3” to 1.25” above lip
At the switchback in trail, E side of trail, left side (GPS= N533 W455)
83 .9 lame generic slab up E face
At switchback in trail, W side of trail, right side (GPS= N535 W469)
84 .9 lame generic slab up E face
Right side just after switchback, directly on trail (GPS= N547 W486)
85 .5 very short crack/ stem on N face
Right side just after switchback, 2nd rock back, a brush covered thin crack faces the trail (GPS= N553 W493)
86 .7 flare with hands in back on N side, multi-pitch bouldering
Left side after switchback, large boulder 50’ S (GPS= N518 W535)
87 5.10 E corner seen from trail, grainy corner to no hands foot traverse left finish (tr bolts) FA- Roed, Lanman, and Lanman
88 5.10A W corner, buckets and big pod on grainy rock, bolt protected crux mantel (1 bolt anchor can be backed up by small cam)
89 5.11+ powerful traverse on slopers, S face (bolt+ small cam, long slings)
90 5.7 lame short flaring offwidth on bad rock
91 5.10+***3D Crack- 30’ of fingers to seam/thin face to liebacking buckets finish (tr bolts) FA(tr?)- Robinson, Dan Haughelstine, dave?
Right side first of the 3 boulders across trail from Dragon, backtrack a couple feet back down the old trail (GPS= N537 W534)
92 V0* overhanging buckets, rock up onto foot and reach to top
Right side the second of 3 boulders (GPS= N537 W549)
93 V1* E facing, weird steep funky chimney start with seam in back to desperate wide finish
V?R seam up center of W face inside big chimney between 2nd and 3rd boulder
Right side third of the 3 boulders (GPS= N533 W552)
94 .7 featured face left of crack
95 .5 downclimb, angling crack on E face, facing trail, inside big chimney between 2nd and 3rd Boulders
96 .8 right of the crack, face to right slanting seam
Left side down old trail 30’, boulder problem to summit can be seen from new trail (GPS= N537 W563)
97 5.11-*** Dragon Left- W side of S arete (tr bolts)
98 5.11* Dragon Right- E side of S arete (tr bolts)
99 5.11+* Orc- start at the smaller left pod, up, right to left side of corner for a couple moves, left and down before topping out under anchor (tr bolts)
100 5.10* right side of corner, out left side of the roof of the pod, up and right (bolt+ small cam)
101 5.9* Halfling- between pod and boulder problem (bolt +small cam)
102 .8 to summit
Right side overhanging sitstart in plain view 20’ off trail (GPS= N537 W604)
103 V1* short sitstart, big holds on steep rock, seen from trail
104 V0 sitstart short horizontal hand and fist crack made by 2 boulders below
105 V0 N facing offwidth made by 2 boulders
106 V1 sitstart or tunnel through
107 .6 handcrack in corner on N side, crux start
108 .8otd offwidth on N side
109 V0 lieback shallow fingercrack/ groove, directly right of offwidth
Left side directly across trail from previous (GPS= N529 W603)
110 V1* W facing L slanting crack/ groove
111 .8** S face
Left side tiny boulder directly on switchback (GPS= N536 W609)
112 .9 lieback seam on SW corner
Left side across trail from Ogre (GPS= N536 W617)
113 V2* short seam in overhanging shallow dihedral on S face, crux mantel finish
Right side directly on trail, big rock easily spotted from the Diving Board (GPS= N532 W635)
114 5.9 * fists and wider crack on S side (best belayed from top, use Ogre bolts or sling boulders)
115a 5.12A** Thorvald- S side directly on trail, crux lieback, left and up face, will want pad for start, trick beta for start and trick gear for safe topout, (gear, boulders, or 2nd rope and Ogre’s bolts) FA- Roed, Lanman
115b 5.12A** Thorstein- same start, then reach right to next vertical crack, 2nd crux harder but psychologically easier then the left finish FA- Roed, Lanman
115c V4** crux start only
116 5.11A** Norsemen- from corner jam and lieback left to vertical crack (same finish as Thorstein), tiny trick to hand sized cams to lead safely (slings, gear, or 2nd rope)
117 V1otd* Berserker- right up rail from corner to the Ogre, crux start with bad landing to easy otd finish (tr off gear but put a crashpad in tree) FA- Roed
118 5.11B****Ogre- offwidth to steep fists, hands, fingers, and buckets, can be seen from the Diving Board, cams .5 to 4.5” (2 bolt anchor) FA- Piggot?
118b 5.11 right finish around block at top
119 5.10B* Troll- 2 bolts, start up Ogre, traverse on flakes to ledge, up thin face past 2nd bolt, can use small cam to protect reach out to first bolt (clip directional, lower off Ogre’s bolt anchor) FA- Roed, Lanman, Lanman
Left side directly on trail across from Ogre (GPS= N530 W652)
120 5.10A* Leif- 4 bolt thin face to cruiser corner, originally soloed up and down (2bolt anchor) FA- Roed?
121 5.11* Freydis- corner below anchor (tr bolts) FA- Roed
follow side trail a couple hundred feet E from the Ogre (GPS= N568 W636)
122 5.11*** Firefly- liebacking and fingers, (gear or sling bushes)
just NE from firefly
123 5.10? flake
124 V? start in back of small cave/flake
next boulder NE of previous
125 .6 offwidth on W side FA- Lanman
126 .9 offwidth on E side FA- Roed
Summits you must lead to gain the top of- #19 3bolt 5.8, #26/27 Rolling Stone 10B solo or Notorious V1 boulder problem, #48 Tao of Pooh 1 bolt 5.7, #109 5.9 offwidth opposite Ogre or Troll 2 bolt 10B, #115 Leif 4bolt 5.10A.
Sun/Shade
North facing and shady- the 5.10- dihedral and 5.11C face across from Test Tube/ Crucible have full shade all day. The cracks above them are also N facing but you’ll probably belay from the top so not so good. Test Tube/ Crucible are good. Ride the lightning is, but only 1 bp and not a comfortable hangout. Ogre and the 10B to the right are shady, Firefly is somewhat. Any route on the N slope. The summit area bouldering is in the pine trees is good.
The rest is in mostly sun but exposed to any wind out of the W.
The S slope is totally protected from wind out of the N and E and can be perfect when the lower parts of the road are windy.
Send beta and first accent info for this area to
erikchristopherroed@yahoo.com
