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Author Topic: Vol.4 The Junctions  (Read 497 times)
Erik
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Posts: 193


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« on: November 17, 2008, 01:56:57 PM »

Map http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=109739656233440862437.00044cecc2273494ef206&ll=33.006666,-116.986241&spn=0.010959,0.016479&t=h&z=16

Woodson Overview http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=109739656233440862437.00044cfd11656e9819fbf&t=h&z=14

Woodson Trails http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=109739656233440862437.00044cfdb47c7d53d10ab&t=h&ll=33.003193,-116.980791&spn=0.042325,0.093727&z=14

Woodson Trails (topographic) http://www.efgh.com/maps/mtwoodson.gif

San Diego Overview http://climbingsandiego.com/forum/index.php?topic=267.0

Mt Woodson Vol4, The Junctions (Woodson West)
big hike to some good problems (Much of this will be very overgrown very soon)
Updated 23Dec2009

1   .9   cupped hands/fist on S side (can see the backside, a 3’ tall fist crack 100’ off the trail)

2   V1*    overhanging buckets to sloper topout on SW corner

3   .7*   tall handcrack with features on E side, crux start FA- Altman
    .5   downclimb on W side

4   .6   lame dihedral and corner on left side of N side, starts low in a bit of chimney with another rock behind you
   V1*    lieback ramp that slopes up and right on SW side, rough landing

5   V0    short powerful featured face left of offwidth
    .8   flare/ offwidth on S side made by 2 rocks

6   .8   lame right angling seam seen uphill from #7

7   .8   short wide crack left of the finger crack
    V2*   classic and testpiece overhanging finger crack on S side

8   .7R   tall easy SE corner of the patio slab S of #7

9   V0    fingers and hands on E side

10   5.10A*mega classic vertical rattly fingers, 1”ish cams anchor FA- (tr) Altman (lead) Roed
    .6*   downclimb on N, backside

11    V0   short seam, left of 3 cracks on S side f rock N of #10
    .8   middle crack FA- Lanman
   .8   right crack

12     .4      L side of flake on E side
        .6      R side of flake
        V0     sitstart on corner, up and left, left end of N side
        V1*   face to arete to roof on N side, go to top and looking over edge into hole first, snake skin found inside last year, mega classic

13     V0*   face L of arete on E side
        V2*   face R of arete on N side
        V0     standing start R end of N face
        V2     sit start NW corner, up and left

14   .6*    hands on W side
        .4   hands on S side of rock across trail from #10

15     .6     offwidth on S side

16     .6     finger on S side

17   .5   low angle flake and splitter fists on S side of rock S of #10

18   .9   short boulder problem/ seam on E side of next rock S

19   5.9     left flake on S side of rock 150’ down trail/ hill
    5.7*   center flake straight up FA- Lanman
   5.0   right side left traversing flake

20    5.11   seam to face on SE side, tied off flake anchor, FA- (tr) Roed

21   .8   mantle huge horn on small boulder directly on trail

22   .6*   short shallow dihedral, fingers/ hands NW side FA- Lanman

23   .8   short seam on S side of dome

24   .6   downclimb on W side, bottom is crumbly but landing is good
    V0*    left arete of huge boulder split in half, crux start

25   .7   slab on the other half

26   .9    arete and seams on left side of E face
    V0   downclimb/ short grainy problem on W side, crux jumpstart

27   .6*   hands on W side
        .0     y crack on left side of S face
    .7   crappy center chimney
    .8   offwidth on R side of S face

28   .5   crack on S side of rock NW of junction of OLD Fry-Kroegel with Woodson trails
    5.10   short widecrack/ lieback that starts otd off some flakes, pinches down to thin at the top, FA- (tr) Roed

29   .9*   short splitter fingers inside chimney, seen from trail FA- Lanman?
   ?   unclimbed dirty crack on left side of S face
   .8   crack to crux face/ mantle on R side of S face
   ?    unclimbed dirty crack on E side

The easiest way to access this area (30-38) is from 1/3 down the switchbacks at the large, Healthy, oak tree. Cut directly E across the hill until you hit 33 and 34 (there’s a cave on the corner). Work your way E and up hill hitting the trail around #29

30   .9   handcrack on S side starts at chest level with undercut feet

31   .6   short dihedral, pure stemming FA- Lanman
   .8    offwidth FA- Lanman

32   .9   crack/ flake left of offwidth, deceivingly hard
    V0*   offwidth on S side/ outside of chimney
   .8   dihedral in corner inside big chimney without using other side of chinmey
   ?   seems like there was a real crappy easy crack inside the chimney FA- Lanman

33   .4*   low angle slab/ crazy ladder buckets on S side

34   .5*   dike on S side

35   V0*   sit start thin crack to flake on W side FA- Dave Kappel
   5.10A* dogleg highball handcrack on E side, traverse left and up, super featured and a bit loose FA-Kappel

36   5.10*   big offwidth roof, done using ledge to the right, would be hard w/o it FA- (tr) Roed
   .7   arete in corridor opposite ow FA- Lanman

37   5.11*   20’ splitter thin crack in shallow corner on S side FA- (tr) Roed, after many tries, then flashed by Lanman on tr
    .6*   downclimb, hands on N side

38   V2*   slab to corner to handcrack through roof on S side

39     V1*   Bent Face- E facing arete and face on dark rock (? anchor) FA- (tr) Kappel

40     V2R   groove on SE corner, crux topout and bad landing, 10' from and facing switchback trail up hill, a few feet from where you  would leave the trail to go to #41 (long slings anchor) FA- (tr) Kappel

41   5.11* mega pumpy overhanging hands in flare/ shallow dihedral to vertical thin hands and bucket finish. W of and halfway up the switch backs coming up the hill and to the West. 2,1,and a small cam to lead, Can Belay from backside with no gear FA- Roed

42   clump of boulders up the hill N of trail (halfway between trail and #45), W of    the Warren Canyon junction
    .5    left fist crack FA- Craig Clarence?
    V?   unclimbed overhanging thin crack
   .5   fingers FA- Lanman?

43   V1   SE facing hands/ fingers/ lieback/ steep face on small boulder

44   V1   S facing, 10’ from #43 fingers and lieback over bulge

45   5.8*    huge splitter dihedral seen up on hillside, 2 offwidth moves into chimney

46    V1     standing left FA- Kappel *need location*
       V1     standing right FA- Kappel
       V2*   Krabby Patty Sitstart- FA- Kappel

47    5.6    fist crack on NW side across trail from picnic table

48   V0R*   left side of knobby N face seen from trail FA- (tr) Lanman
    V0otd*   right side of knobby face
   5.9    slab on W side  FA- (tr) Sue Hopkins

49   .8*    left side of 30’ knobby face seen behind #48
   .8*    center FA- (tr) Hopkins
   .9*    right FA- (tr) Clarence

50   V1otd* jumpstart to left slanting rail on N side seen from trail

Send beta and first accent info for this area to erikchristopherroed@yahoo.com
« Last Edit: December 23, 2009, 08:37:45 PM by Erik » Logged
Erik
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Posts: 193


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« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2008, 02:25:26 PM »

Pictures stolen from http://climbingsandiego.com/forum/index.php?topic=462.msg2405#msg2405, http://climbingsandiego.com/forum/index.php?topic=530.0, and Ryan.

double posted sign, location shown on map

looking NW at #3 (4,5 up and right but below the skyline, 7 and 10 are up and left, the main trail is along the skyline)

#5 from 7 and 8

#7


<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0JhyObqXNI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0JhyObqXNI</a>
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkuntShjtJs" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkuntShjtJs</a>
#10






<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cS6qwHly1-4" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cS6qwHly1-4</a>
looking E from #10, with #7-1 in foreground and the Ogre and the summit in the background


left side of #11

#14 (on right) from #10 (not sure about the top center, keep confusing it w/#23, will have to double check if theres anything on it) left in background is 22 on skyline and 20,21 directly below it

#15

#16



looking NW #20/21 center behind bush, 22 skyline to left (2nd from right on skyline)

#20





bad picture of #23

#35 Woodson's hardest handcrack

#43

#46
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6715658697975780717&hl=en
Sun Scorpion

Turkey Vultures



« Last Edit: March 27, 2009, 03:56:48 AM by Erik » Logged
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